(Obviously we meet innumerable people in our travels, not all of whom get directly mentioned, but their thoughts, their help shall always be remembered. I wanted to make a special mention of some.)

Vizag guest house’s owner Suresh, a wonderful man with an entrepreneurial mind, introduced me to his trusty team. Suresh took me to see the local temple and was my go-to person throughout the few days there. His sharp mind makes me sure that he will accomplish all the goals he has for India. He is among the first to start a special reading cum IT center for students who find it difficult to read and study in their homes. Providing low cost library like services in India, where privacy and personal space is a privilege, he fulfilled a niche market and will succeed. Along with him his trusty cook Kumar took extremely good care of my needs and made sure I had my local meals. When I was too nauseous one morning he even made me vegetable fried rice with a cold Thums up, a favorite that would make me feel better. He often said to me while he watched me eat with tears in his eyes, “Looking at you eat ma, I remember my own daughter, who was skinny like you. I am so glad you came here.”  Suresh introduced me to Vijay who would take me on a wonderful journey, with only stories to tell.
Vijay also introduced me to his wife and wonderful 6month baby and took me to local temples and dargahs and hidden beaches among thriving fishing villages. While Prasanna Ma’am provided the intellectual support I so needed, and Suresh and Vijay showed me their Vizag, all of them welcomed me straight into their homes. Among those faces, Telegu didn’t seem so foreign, the food didn’t seem that spicy, and the weather was never too uncomfortable.

Vijayawada strengthened the bonds I made in Vizag because I was able to meet Prasanna Ma’am’s father and mother, an old couple living across the Krishna River in Sitalakshmipuram. Among this family I learned about old Vijayawada, when the city was less populated and routes were demarcated by the nishanis left behind by the various rulers. Aunty made me the best coconut milk rice I have had with spicy potatoes. Hearing the Ramayana from uncle was a special treat, one that I will always carry with me. A rather unsuspecting friend was found in the President of KBM college, a friend and mentor of Prasanna Ma’am. He didn’t have to but he found it in his big heart to become my guide in Kondapalle and take me to visit and talk to local toy-makers there. He too told me a variety of stories about rituals and local sites in the area, introducing me to his wife and children and his naughty grandson. Over chai and Cabbaga pakoda, we chatted about religion and dolls. It was in Vijayawada that I also befriended a local waiter called Suri who became my go-to person about buses, local destinations and food. The tomato rice with buttermilk was a special favorite along with puri aloo (fried tortillas that poof up with turmeric, onion and green chilli seasoned potatoes).

The very last destination of my trip was Hyderabad. Being a modern city with historical significance I wasn’t sure what to expect. Here too a childhood friend who happened to be living in the city took me around and showed me the time of my life. Enlivened by the youth of Hyderabad I didn’t feel so far away from America. I often had to remind myself I was in India. However its modernity didn’t overshadow the traditional role it had played. The remnants of culture and civilization from a time just a few centuries before still existed as well. Visiting Golconda Fort or the Qutub Shahi tombs, hearing about Visa Balaji – the visa granting Vishnu avatar, or talking to my friend’s husband about his corporate job at Amazon, or puking my breakfast outside Charminar near the Lad Bazaar, I will never forget the joy of friendship in this trip.

As you may tell from my post, food and people have formed pleasant memories in my mind, making AP a tough to rate place in my heart. AP may prove lesser important that I first imagined for my research but the friendships will last beyond this visit. Afterall isn’t this why we do fieldwork? To build friendships places a special burden, a burden of trust as Pierre Bourdieu says and with that comes the encumbrance of true understanding. If I ever would pen down my thoughts about this journey in the form of data, I would have to think very carefully before portraying my friends who gladly laughed and chided me through this journey.